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Sardinia [4]

Sardinia (Sardegna) - Around its coast Sardinia boasts some of the most idyllic beaches in the Mediterranean and many of them are unspoiled.
The exploration of the island’s capital Cagliari reveals it as cosmopolitan enclave quite apart from the rest of the island. The hilly labyrinth of the sandy-colored medieval Castello district and the bright pastel colors of restored facades are jostling for your attention. The city’s long Poetto beach is good for a city-side splash. The nearby salt marshes occasionally attract flocks of pink flamingos. The precipitous stone walls of medieval Cagliari enclose Il Castello, a once virtually impregnable fortress town. The grand white Torre di San Pancrazio the right of the northern city gate, is one of two medieval Pisan defensive towers still standing. The Museo Archeologico Nazionale contains precious material dating from pre-Nuraghic to late Roman times. The Cagliari waterfront is also known as Marina. It’s remarkably blessed with churches.
Southeast of Cagliari, past the Poetto strand, the road east pretty much hugs the coast all the way around to Villasimius and then north along the Costa Rei. A few kilometers short of Villasimius, a road veers off south along the peninsula that leads to Capo Carbonara, the most southeasterly point of Sardinia. The main strand on this side of the peninsula is Spiaggia del Riso. On the east side is a nice long beach, Spiaggia del Simius. Villasimius makes a comfortable base for exploring the attractive coastline. Southwest of Cagliari, the small town and beach of Chia marks the start of the beautiful Costa del Sud. It winds its way west to Porto Teulada and offers several enticing beaches, like Cala Teuradda, en route. Le Grotte Is Zuddas are one of the island’s many spectacular natural sculpture museums. The largely limestone rock lends the stalactites and stalagmites a particularly translucent quality.
Iglesias in the southwest of Sardinia is a surprisingly charming spot. The Spaniards are long gone but the place retains an Iberian feel, with chatter in the air, deep summer heat and Aragones style wrought iron balconies. Sights are the Castello Salvaterra, a Pisan fortress, the Duomo and the Museo dell’Arte Mineraria. The Tempio di Antas, a Carthaginian-Roman temple about 15km north of Iglesias is set in a wide, picturesque valley. Just 8km west of Iglesias is the local golden beach of Funtanamare facing the Golfo di Gonnesa. The islands Sant’Antioco and San Pietro, off the southwestern coast of Sardinia, have sandy beaches and quiet coves. Some beaches worth seeking out include Maladroixa and Spiaggia Coa Quaddus along the east coast. From Capo Pecora in the south to Capo Frasca in the north, the Costa Verde boasts some of the least spoiled and most beautiful beaches in Sardinia. Keep an eye out for signs to Spiaggia Scivu, a spectacular golden strand.
Oristano’s focal point for most visitors is the ancient site of Tharros on the Sinis peninsula and the beaches to the north. West of Oristano stretches the Sinis Peninsula, with sandy beaches, the ruins of the ancient Tharros and the chance to see flamingos. The ancient city of Tharros is set impeccably by the sea at the southern extreme of the peninsula. Just before Tharros is the settlement of San Giovanni di Sinis. Interesting beaches are Spiaggia di San Giovanni di Sinis, Is Arutas and the beach at Putzu Idu. Further north of the Sinis Peninsula are some beaches around the low-key resort of Santa Caterina di Pittinuri. One of the most important and most visited of the island’s nuraghi is the Nuraghe Su Nuraxi, barely half a kilometer to the west of the village of Barumini.
Bosa lies within the fat finger of Nuoro province that slips its way to the west coast between Sassari and Oristano provinces. Bosa is a pretty stop that combines the curiosity of the medieval town and its monuments with the broad sandy beach nearby. It lies 3km inland from a fine beach on the banks of the Temo River.
Alghero, a medieval centre with its sea walls still intact, is one of the most charming of Sardinian towns. It makes an agreeable base for exploring the northwest. Sights are the Cattedrale di Santa Maria, the Torre Porta a Terra and the Bastione della Maddalena. The town’s beaches are Spiaggia di San Giovanni and the Spiaggia di Maria Pia. About 10km west of Alghero on the road to Porto Conte is the Nuraghe di Palmavera. The road west from the nuraghe heads to Porto Conte, a lovely bay, and on around to Capo Caccia, a dramatic cape jutting out high above the Mediterranean.
Sassari is Sardinia’s second city. Two grand churches, the cathedral and Santa Maria di Betlem, are impressive and the Museo Nazionale Sanna, an archeological museum is a must. North of Sassari stretches the local’s favorite beach, such as Platamona and Marina di Sorso.
A small village lies at the core of the peninsula Stintino. Towards the northern end of the peninsula is the magnificent Spiaggia della Pelosa. The main island stretching off to the north is Isola Asinara.
Together with Palau, the seaside resort Santa Teresa di Gallura is an affordable alternative to the villages on the Costa Smeralda. Four kilometers west of Santa Teresa, the granite headland of Capo Testa seems more like a divine sculpture garden. The place also has a couple of beaches.
The Isola della Maddalena is the principal island of an archipelago of seven islands and 40 islets. Linked to La Maddalena by a narrow causeway is Isola Caprera. A walking trail leads down to the secluded Cala Coticcio beach. The three northernmost islands are Isola Budelli, Isola Razzoli and Isola di Santa Maria.
Porto Cervo is the main village of the Costa Smeralda. Among the nicest beaches are Spiaggia Liscia Ruia, Capriccioli and Spiaggia del Principe. Arzachena, 19km inland from Porto Cervo, is the launch pad for a driving tour to explore ancient Nuraghic sites.
Ferries from Livorno, Civitavecchia and Fiumicino run to the Golfo Aranci. The place has some pleasant beaches on the coastal route to Olbia.
A handful museums and the town’s hilly position in the shadow of Monte Ortobene make the provincial capital Nuoro worth a stopover. Sights are the Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni Sarde and the Museo Archeologico Nazionale. About 7km out of Nuoro rises Monte Ortobene, a favorite picnic spot with locals. The Nuraghic village of Serra Orrios is worth a stop. The site lies 11km northwest of Dorgali. The southeastern sector of Nuoro province is known as the Ogliastra. From Dorgali the highway winds south through the high mountain terrain of the eastern end of the Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei e del Gennargentu. A first detour comes a few kilometers south of Dorgali with a road dropping off to the southwest past Monte Sant’Elene towards the Nuraghic village of Tiscali.
Santa Maria Navarrese is located at the southern end of the Golfo di Orosei; this delightful spot is a tempting alternative to its busier northern counterpart, Cala Gonone. The pleasant beach is lapped by transparent water and the setting is a gem. Offshore are several islets, including the Isola dell’Ogliastra, and the leafy northern end of the beach is topped by a watchtower.
The seaside resort of Cala Gonone, just 10km east of Dorgali, is an excellent base from which to explore the coves along the most startling stretch of the Golfo di Orosei’s coastline. Several beaches stretch to the immediate south of the port. Some better ones are Cala Cartoe, Cala Luna and Cala Sisine.